5$ small battery powered led panel
by：HGB
2020-06-29
When it comes to photography, lighting is one of the factors that cannot be ignored.
The lighting of the professional photo studio is always more than needed, because you never know which lighting settings you need (
You don\'t need to run to the photo store when the light breaks.
Also, it\'s annoying to carry a large LED panel with you when traveling.
Now, there are small LED panels on the market for about $50, but I will tell you how I made my LED panels for a tenth!
The panel is Li-
Charging with a standard Micro USB charger is very bright.
There is also a toggle switch that allows to switch to the main power supply when needed.
When used for batteries, the brightness of the led is also dimmablemode.
The weight of the panel is about 180 grams (0. 6 pounds)
So this is the perfect device to carry with you when traveling.
My panel battery lasts about 5 hours but can be customized by changing the number of Li-
Ion battery in panel.
Thanks to the mounting holes of 1/4, the panel can be mounted on any tripod, trolley, ball head, magic arm, etc.
Oh, almost forgot, the panel is also 100% dust proof: there is nothing further about DSo, let\'s get started!
If you are in a hurry or too lazy to read, you can watch this short video and you have the basics.
To make it easier to build a panel, I started by making a 3D model in Solidworks first.
I want my panel to have two DC input jacks
This will give me more flexibility and allow me to place the panel on the right and left side of the object I am shooting/shooting.
I also decided to put the switch into the cavity on the back of the panel.
In this way, it is difficult to accidentally close the panel by corresponding to the panel.
There is also a standard 1/4 thread at the bottom of the panel, so it can be mounted on any tripod/magic arm with a few laps of the wrist.
In order to make the panel, we have to cut out two large plates, three sidepies and a strange hollowing piece that will hold the cavity of the toggle switch.
To make this tutorial easier to understand, let\'s call it part c \".
Here are the materials needed to build: 1x roll white LED strip (
Normally there are 5 m LED light bars but we only use half of them)1x Li-
Ion Charger Module (
Looking for mark2 that also has V input and output ports on the PCB)
1x switch1x 100 K potentiometer2x single-knife double-throw 5mm LEDs (
1 Green 1 red)
1x DC jack input (
I used two of them and I will explain the reason later)1x DC-
DC step-up buck converter (
I plan to use the ICSA004A module, but since I managed to destroy three of them while making cirquit, I used the XL6009 in the final version)2x Li-Ion cells -
At least 2 000 mAh (
Mines recovered from old laptop batteries)
1x tube 3mm thick MDFSome White paint1 x roll solderA beam short, thin wires1x 1/4 \'standard female camera screw holder (
I Rescued My from the old camera.
Optometrist: a thin piece of plexiglass, you need the following tools in order to protect the led \'sand: 1x Wire stripper1x Hacksaw1x hot glue gun2x Clamps1x Soldering 1x Drill1x 1mm bit bit1x 5mm bit bit1x 12mm bit bit1x step bit bit1x woodworking cutter your neutral white warm white with plain white strip (
Also called Bright White).
The light they send out certainly has the color the name refers.
If you want to have everything greatin-
A panel, I suggest you use neutral white strips.
They mimic the normal sunlight well and can basically be used in any setting.
Cheap gel filters can be added to change the color temperature if needed.
In my case, I decided to use a pure white LED strip because I wanted the color of the object to be as close to \"original\" as possible \".
The panel will be used to illuminate the scene ,(
Keep the color neutral as much as possible).
Then color grading is done in Photoshop.
However, if I need to get more tungsten lamps, the cheap filter in front of the panel will solve the problem: the DThe LED light strip is also sorted according to the LED Size used on the light strip.
The most common sizes are 3014, 3020 and 2835.
They all have different beam angles, but can be negotiated when making LED panels.
On various websites such as Amazon, Ebay, Banggood, radiowack, LED light bars can be purchased cheaply.
I got mines from Bangor for $2. 50.
Note: If you can, please don\'t buy the cheapest LED strips you can find, because their CRI values tend to be very low, so apply a strange color to transparent objects.
I want my panel size to be as close as possible to the Gold ratio.
Because I already know, I\'m going to use a three-segment strip (15cm in total)
, I just need to add 1 cm for the edge to get the length of the panel (16cm).
I then divide the length of the panel by 1. 61803398875 (
Gold ratio)
Get the height of my panel (9. 88cm)
The width of the panel is given by the thickest component built-
Lithium battery.
When I use a 16850 battery, the width of the panel will be 18mm length = 15 1 = 16 cm height = 16/1. 62 = 9. 88cmWidth = 1.
8 cmI then cut the front panel using the dimensions calculated in front.
The panel is cut from a 3mm thick mid-fiber board.
To avoid an error in sticking tape to the board, I tracked multiple parallel lines on the front panel with a pencil.
They will not be seen in the final result, so this is completely optional (but suggested)to do that.
I then applied a white coat of paint on the front panel.
This step is 100% optional but no additional effort is required.
It just helps to ensure that there won\'t be any brown spots between LED light strips on the final product.
Note: Make sure the coating is not too thick if you decide to draw the front, otherwise.
You can\'t see the lines below.
As mentioned earlier, I would like to use three stripes.
To get the required number of bars, I just need to do a European division between the height of the panel (9. 88cm)
Width of the bar (0. 75cm). This gave us 9. 88/0. 75 = 13 + 0. 13Because 0.
The edge of 13 cm is not enough to add plexiglass later, and I decided to sacrifice one and switch to 12.
When cutting the strip, you just need to follow the given line of the strip that is located between the two pairs of copper points.
Then I stuck all the tape on the panel with the sticky edge behind the tape.
In order to get uniform results, you need to be aware that you glue all the tape in the same way.
There is a 12 v symbol on one corner of each bar, so all you need to do is make sure all 12 v points in the same direction (up/down)
When stuck on the board
If everything you do is correct, you now have a board full of SMD LEDs that form a clean team, like a submachine team.
I then use a 9 v and two crocodile clips to check if each led clip works as expected.
To maximize the space on the front of the panel, I decided to drill a small millimeter hole next to the led light strip.
Therefore, each hole is faced with a previously manufactured solder joint.
I drilled the hole as close to the strip as possible, because every millimeter on the boundary is important.
When you drill these holes, I suggest you put something under the panel, such as a medium fiber board or wood.
It will stop you from being surprised when you lift the newly drilled panel.
To extend the terminals of the strip, I used a bunch of small 1 mm² thick wires (
Red represents the, black represents-).
I make sure all ends of the wire are stripped off and then bend 90 degrees at one end of each wire.
This will help lock the straps in place and prevent them from falling off the board.
When all the wires go through the holes, I weld them to the strip by heating the previously made welding points.
In order to make life easier in the future, I added a little bit of welding to the terminal of the LED light strip.
The top terminal of each bar is (+)
Terminal, the next terminal is (-)
, If you stick the strap to the board in the right direction.
We need to connect our LED bars together now.
It doesn\'t matter if you connect them in parallel or in series, as the LED chip is already parallel to bar welding.
So no matter how you weld the strips together, they will be parallel.
I made a small schematic showing you the different options for connecting your bars together.
I decided to make the first choice.
I used a bunch of short, 1 mm² thick wires to connect the straps (
Red represents the, black represents-).
I make sure all ends of the wire are stripped off and then bend 90 degrees at one end of each wire.
This will help lock the straps in place and prevent them from falling off the board.
When all the wires go through the holes, I weld them to the strip by heating the previously made welding points.
Then I welded the wires into three groups.
This makes it easier to connect them to the \"mother Line.
Speaking of the \"mother Line\", I decided to recover from the old ATX power supply with a thick cable.
This wire can handle a lot of current (
This is basic when making larger panels).
I used my wire stripper to do three cuts at the wire isolation.
I then expanded the space between the isolation sheets with a pair of pliers. The non-
The isolated parts are then welded to a set of wires, as shown in the figure.
This leaves us with two wires that can be connected directly to the right power supply.
But since we can do better, let\'s build a system that uses Li-ion batteries!
The basic system we will use costs less than $5.
The power supply of the panel is a two-piece 18650 lithium battery.
These can be recycled from old laptop batteries.
The battery must be connected in parallel.
Don\'t connect them in series if you\'re going to charge them.
Speaking of charging, I used a Charger Module based on tp4056 which also has V out terminals.
All we need to do is connect the B of the module to the positive lead line of the battery and B-
Negative side.
V terminals can be connected to the step-down converter VIn and V-to the VIn-.
The buck converter will increase by 4.
2 V enters 12 V from the battery to power the LED light strip.
Let the panel also be studio-
I also added two DC input jacks to the circuit if appropriate.
They have the same ground as the buck converter and I have never had a problem using this setting.
The positive lead of the buck converter and the DC jack can be connected to the SPDT switching switch.
The \"main\" pin of the switch can then be attached to the LED light strip, as shown in the schematic diagram.
Note: For those who want to modify the module, I will explain it later. on.
Then I cut the back panel.
Because it has the same size as the front panel, it is very easy.
I also made a small cut on one side of the panel to match the C block below.
I then cut a 18mm wide mid-fiber board and cut it into smaller pieces to get three rectangular pices to cover the sides of the panel.
Because the C piece has to be thicker, it cannot be made from a whole fiber board like the others.
Instead, you need to cover many layers of material to get a solid layer of material that can be modified.
I have a piece of wood that is 18mm thick and, of course, replace it. .
Then I carved a depression on Block C with the Dremel tool.
After that, a made two square cutouts in the two corners of the work to accommodate the side blocks later.
I then drill holes on the C piece, which matches the original 3D plan.
I used 5mm bits for LEDs, 10mm bits for DC jacks, and 8mm bits for toggle switches.
After that, I carved a rectangular slot behind the toggle switch hole to allow the switch to be mounted using a nut.
Since the metal corner block is not cheap, I quickly made four corner blocks with two wooden blocks.
Since these blocks already have 90-degree corners, I had to cut a square block in half along the diagonal to get two corners.
I also made two cubic supports to help fix the sides of the panel later.
To make life easier, it is possible to pre-drill holes on each side of the stand facing the wood.
These holes will be used to attach the bracket to the side with screws.
When I tried to stick to the board with glue, I found that there was not enough space due to the wires.
So I removed a bit of material with a knife.
After that everything fits well and I can stick Block C to the board.
I used my original 3D model as a reference to drill the rest of the holes into the side of the panel.
I made a hole in the USB charger with a knife.
Use step bit to make holes for DC-in mount.
I then cut out the mounting hole for the 1/4 \'screw at the bottom of the panel.
I rescued the connector screws from an old camera.
There\'s one like this for each camera, and some may even have two!
Note: it is better to place the 1/4 \'screw bracket in the center of the panel as the center of gravity of the panel is also near the center.
I decided to connect the remaining side blocks to the back board.
There are two main parts.
I used a lot of wood glue and small wood screws for this.
I stick the corner block to the panel first.
Then I added the screw.
When the glue dries, it is time to glue the side blocks and support pieces in place.
When using manual tools, small cracks between the workpiece joints are inevitable.
Fortunately, these cracks can be sealed with some glue and sawdust.
First, I began to measure the quantity.
According to my experiments, the 1:1 ratio usually works well.
You can use any strong glue you have on hand.
Dimensional glue is always a safe choice.
When mixing putty, you need to make sure that the mixture is still formable and add some glue if not.
The putty is ready. I stuffed it into the crack.
After 5 minutes, I removed the excess and started polishing the surface.
The small particles produced by grinding enter the cracks.
They are mixed with glue to make a solidified rock material similar to some kind of resin.
Now, the cracks are not obvious, and the sides of the panel look like they are made of a medium-fiber board.
Before installing the assembly, it is best to draw the surrounding environment of the mounting hole first.
To add a layer of protection to my panel, I decided to add a layer of paint to each side of the panel that will be exposed to the outsideworld.
Since the initial state LEDs for the Li ion Charger Module will be stuck with the panel housing, I changed the initial SMD LEDs with two 5mm LEDs.
The two centers are sold to the ground (-)pins.
On 5mm led, the negative leg is the shortest.
Then I fixed the connection with a heat shrink tube.
To save money, I originally planned to change the potentiometer for icsa004a DC-
DC boost module (
It took only 0. 60$).
But when I tried to do that, I managed to destroy three of them.
The module always outputs 0. 07 volts.
After some research, I found that the main IC of the module is broken and will be heated every time the battery is connected to the module.
Because the module at the time was unusable, I ended up using an XL6009 module (
See this in the next step).
The XL6009 is a step-down converter, which means that the output voltage can be higher or lower than the input voltage.
The output voltage depends on the resistance value of the intermediate trimpot.
So if we want to control the brightness of the LEDs, we need to adjust the trimpot.
To make it easier, we need to add a 100 K potentiometer of normal size in parallel on the trimpot.
Now we need to turn the potentiometer to make it as low as possible, then we have to adjust the value of the trimpot so that the led will turn off.
Now, the led should light up slowly when the rotational potential is timed until it reaches full brightness.
Note: xl900 9 is a little more expensive than icsa004a, a little bigger, but in the east it works every time!
When I tried to close the panel, I found that the potentiometer took up too much space.
But 10 minutes of carpentry with a knife solved the problem.
I then use the supplied nut to install all the installable parts in the corresponding holes.
To install the Charger Module and the status indicator, I used a combination of hot glue and multi-glue.
Then I connected everything with solder and wire as before, but this time.
Then I closed the panel with a lot of glue.
This makes the panel very wear and dust resistant.
When the glue is dry, the clip is used to hold the position of the fragment.
To prevent dust from entering the hole, it covers all possible dust first
Entrance with tape
After that, I used the same DIY Wood filling mixture as before to fill all the blanks.
Then I polished everything that was flush on the surface with sandpaper.
I then added a few layers of white paint to the panel.
The paint also helps to hide the cracks between the mid-fiber boards.
After a whole weekend of work, it was finally finished.
But it\'s worth it!
The panel is very compact and can also be used as a handheld emergency light.
If you have any questions, please ask them in the comments section below!
Ps: because each led segment is made of three SMD LEDs in series, the entire segment is broken if unfortunately one of the LEDs is broken.
But the surrounding parts are still illuminated.
This means that to fix a clip, all you need to do is replace the damaged LED with a working LED (
Can be salvaged from another ship).
If you feel that your welding skills are not good enough, you can also remove the damaged part and replace it with the work part.
The lighting of the professional photo studio is always more than needed, because you never know which lighting settings you need (
You don\'t need to run to the photo store when the light breaks.
Also, it\'s annoying to carry a large LED panel with you when traveling.
Now, there are small LED panels on the market for about $50, but I will tell you how I made my LED panels for a tenth!
The panel is Li-
Charging with a standard Micro USB charger is very bright.
There is also a toggle switch that allows to switch to the main power supply when needed.
When used for batteries, the brightness of the led is also dimmablemode.
The weight of the panel is about 180 grams (0. 6 pounds)
So this is the perfect device to carry with you when traveling.
My panel battery lasts about 5 hours but can be customized by changing the number of Li-
Ion battery in panel.
Thanks to the mounting holes of 1/4, the panel can be mounted on any tripod, trolley, ball head, magic arm, etc.
Oh, almost forgot, the panel is also 100% dust proof: there is nothing further about DSo, let\'s get started!
If you are in a hurry or too lazy to read, you can watch this short video and you have the basics.
To make it easier to build a panel, I started by making a 3D model in Solidworks first.
I want my panel to have two DC input jacks
This will give me more flexibility and allow me to place the panel on the right and left side of the object I am shooting/shooting.
I also decided to put the switch into the cavity on the back of the panel.
In this way, it is difficult to accidentally close the panel by corresponding to the panel.
There is also a standard 1/4 thread at the bottom of the panel, so it can be mounted on any tripod/magic arm with a few laps of the wrist.
In order to make the panel, we have to cut out two large plates, three sidepies and a strange hollowing piece that will hold the cavity of the toggle switch.
To make this tutorial easier to understand, let\'s call it part c \".
Here are the materials needed to build: 1x roll white LED strip (
Normally there are 5 m LED light bars but we only use half of them)1x Li-
Ion Charger Module (
Looking for mark2 that also has V input and output ports on the PCB)
1x switch1x 100 K potentiometer2x single-knife double-throw 5mm LEDs (
1 Green 1 red)
1x DC jack input (
I used two of them and I will explain the reason later)1x DC-
DC step-up buck converter (
I plan to use the ICSA004A module, but since I managed to destroy three of them while making cirquit, I used the XL6009 in the final version)2x Li-Ion cells -
At least 2 000 mAh (
Mines recovered from old laptop batteries)
1x tube 3mm thick MDFSome White paint1 x roll solderA beam short, thin wires1x 1/4 \'standard female camera screw holder (
I Rescued My from the old camera.
Optometrist: a thin piece of plexiglass, you need the following tools in order to protect the led \'sand: 1x Wire stripper1x Hacksaw1x hot glue gun2x Clamps1x Soldering 1x Drill1x 1mm bit bit1x 5mm bit bit1x 12mm bit bit1x step bit bit1x woodworking cutter your neutral white warm white with plain white strip (
Also called Bright White).
The light they send out certainly has the color the name refers.
If you want to have everything greatin-
A panel, I suggest you use neutral white strips.
They mimic the normal sunlight well and can basically be used in any setting.
Cheap gel filters can be added to change the color temperature if needed.
In my case, I decided to use a pure white LED strip because I wanted the color of the object to be as close to \"original\" as possible \".
The panel will be used to illuminate the scene ,(
Keep the color neutral as much as possible).
Then color grading is done in Photoshop.
However, if I need to get more tungsten lamps, the cheap filter in front of the panel will solve the problem: the DThe LED light strip is also sorted according to the LED Size used on the light strip.
The most common sizes are 3014, 3020 and 2835.
They all have different beam angles, but can be negotiated when making LED panels.
On various websites such as Amazon, Ebay, Banggood, radiowack, LED light bars can be purchased cheaply.
I got mines from Bangor for $2. 50.
Note: If you can, please don\'t buy the cheapest LED strips you can find, because their CRI values tend to be very low, so apply a strange color to transparent objects.
I want my panel size to be as close as possible to the Gold ratio.
Because I already know, I\'m going to use a three-segment strip (15cm in total)
, I just need to add 1 cm for the edge to get the length of the panel (16cm).
I then divide the length of the panel by 1. 61803398875 (
Gold ratio)
Get the height of my panel (9. 88cm)
The width of the panel is given by the thickest component built-
Lithium battery.
When I use a 16850 battery, the width of the panel will be 18mm length = 15 1 = 16 cm height = 16/1. 62 = 9. 88cmWidth = 1.
8 cmI then cut the front panel using the dimensions calculated in front.
The panel is cut from a 3mm thick mid-fiber board.
To avoid an error in sticking tape to the board, I tracked multiple parallel lines on the front panel with a pencil.
They will not be seen in the final result, so this is completely optional (but suggested)to do that.
I then applied a white coat of paint on the front panel.
This step is 100% optional but no additional effort is required.
It just helps to ensure that there won\'t be any brown spots between LED light strips on the final product.
Note: Make sure the coating is not too thick if you decide to draw the front, otherwise.
You can\'t see the lines below.
As mentioned earlier, I would like to use three stripes.
To get the required number of bars, I just need to do a European division between the height of the panel (9. 88cm)
Width of the bar (0. 75cm). This gave us 9. 88/0. 75 = 13 + 0. 13Because 0.
The edge of 13 cm is not enough to add plexiglass later, and I decided to sacrifice one and switch to 12.
When cutting the strip, you just need to follow the given line of the strip that is located between the two pairs of copper points.
Then I stuck all the tape on the panel with the sticky edge behind the tape.
In order to get uniform results, you need to be aware that you glue all the tape in the same way.
There is a 12 v symbol on one corner of each bar, so all you need to do is make sure all 12 v points in the same direction (up/down)
When stuck on the board
If everything you do is correct, you now have a board full of SMD LEDs that form a clean team, like a submachine team.
I then use a 9 v and two crocodile clips to check if each led clip works as expected.
To maximize the space on the front of the panel, I decided to drill a small millimeter hole next to the led light strip.
Therefore, each hole is faced with a previously manufactured solder joint.
I drilled the hole as close to the strip as possible, because every millimeter on the boundary is important.
When you drill these holes, I suggest you put something under the panel, such as a medium fiber board or wood.
It will stop you from being surprised when you lift the newly drilled panel.
To extend the terminals of the strip, I used a bunch of small 1 mm² thick wires (
Red represents the, black represents-).
I make sure all ends of the wire are stripped off and then bend 90 degrees at one end of each wire.
This will help lock the straps in place and prevent them from falling off the board.
When all the wires go through the holes, I weld them to the strip by heating the previously made welding points.
In order to make life easier in the future, I added a little bit of welding to the terminal of the LED light strip.
The top terminal of each bar is (+)
Terminal, the next terminal is (-)
, If you stick the strap to the board in the right direction.
We need to connect our LED bars together now.
It doesn\'t matter if you connect them in parallel or in series, as the LED chip is already parallel to bar welding.
So no matter how you weld the strips together, they will be parallel.
I made a small schematic showing you the different options for connecting your bars together.
I decided to make the first choice.
I used a bunch of short, 1 mm² thick wires to connect the straps (
Red represents the, black represents-).
I make sure all ends of the wire are stripped off and then bend 90 degrees at one end of each wire.
This will help lock the straps in place and prevent them from falling off the board.
When all the wires go through the holes, I weld them to the strip by heating the previously made welding points.
Then I welded the wires into three groups.
This makes it easier to connect them to the \"mother Line.
Speaking of the \"mother Line\", I decided to recover from the old ATX power supply with a thick cable.
This wire can handle a lot of current (
This is basic when making larger panels).
I used my wire stripper to do three cuts at the wire isolation.
I then expanded the space between the isolation sheets with a pair of pliers. The non-
The isolated parts are then welded to a set of wires, as shown in the figure.
This leaves us with two wires that can be connected directly to the right power supply.
But since we can do better, let\'s build a system that uses Li-ion batteries!
The basic system we will use costs less than $5.
The power supply of the panel is a two-piece 18650 lithium battery.
These can be recycled from old laptop batteries.
The battery must be connected in parallel.
Don\'t connect them in series if you\'re going to charge them.
Speaking of charging, I used a Charger Module based on tp4056 which also has V out terminals.
All we need to do is connect the B of the module to the positive lead line of the battery and B-
Negative side.
V terminals can be connected to the step-down converter VIn and V-to the VIn-.
The buck converter will increase by 4.
2 V enters 12 V from the battery to power the LED light strip.
Let the panel also be studio-
I also added two DC input jacks to the circuit if appropriate.
They have the same ground as the buck converter and I have never had a problem using this setting.
The positive lead of the buck converter and the DC jack can be connected to the SPDT switching switch.
The \"main\" pin of the switch can then be attached to the LED light strip, as shown in the schematic diagram.
Note: For those who want to modify the module, I will explain it later. on.
Then I cut the back panel.
Because it has the same size as the front panel, it is very easy.
I also made a small cut on one side of the panel to match the C block below.
I then cut a 18mm wide mid-fiber board and cut it into smaller pieces to get three rectangular pices to cover the sides of the panel.
Because the C piece has to be thicker, it cannot be made from a whole fiber board like the others.
Instead, you need to cover many layers of material to get a solid layer of material that can be modified.
I have a piece of wood that is 18mm thick and, of course, replace it. .
Then I carved a depression on Block C with the Dremel tool.
After that, a made two square cutouts in the two corners of the work to accommodate the side blocks later.
I then drill holes on the C piece, which matches the original 3D plan.
I used 5mm bits for LEDs, 10mm bits for DC jacks, and 8mm bits for toggle switches.
After that, I carved a rectangular slot behind the toggle switch hole to allow the switch to be mounted using a nut.
Since the metal corner block is not cheap, I quickly made four corner blocks with two wooden blocks.
Since these blocks already have 90-degree corners, I had to cut a square block in half along the diagonal to get two corners.
I also made two cubic supports to help fix the sides of the panel later.
To make life easier, it is possible to pre-drill holes on each side of the stand facing the wood.
These holes will be used to attach the bracket to the side with screws.
When I tried to stick to the board with glue, I found that there was not enough space due to the wires.
So I removed a bit of material with a knife.
After that everything fits well and I can stick Block C to the board.
I used my original 3D model as a reference to drill the rest of the holes into the side of the panel.
I made a hole in the USB charger with a knife.
Use step bit to make holes for DC-in mount.
I then cut out the mounting hole for the 1/4 \'screw at the bottom of the panel.
I rescued the connector screws from an old camera.
There\'s one like this for each camera, and some may even have two!
Note: it is better to place the 1/4 \'screw bracket in the center of the panel as the center of gravity of the panel is also near the center.
I decided to connect the remaining side blocks to the back board.
There are two main parts.
I used a lot of wood glue and small wood screws for this.
I stick the corner block to the panel first.
Then I added the screw.
When the glue dries, it is time to glue the side blocks and support pieces in place.
When using manual tools, small cracks between the workpiece joints are inevitable.
Fortunately, these cracks can be sealed with some glue and sawdust.
First, I began to measure the quantity.
According to my experiments, the 1:1 ratio usually works well.
You can use any strong glue you have on hand.
Dimensional glue is always a safe choice.
When mixing putty, you need to make sure that the mixture is still formable and add some glue if not.
The putty is ready. I stuffed it into the crack.
After 5 minutes, I removed the excess and started polishing the surface.
The small particles produced by grinding enter the cracks.
They are mixed with glue to make a solidified rock material similar to some kind of resin.
Now, the cracks are not obvious, and the sides of the panel look like they are made of a medium-fiber board.
Before installing the assembly, it is best to draw the surrounding environment of the mounting hole first.
To add a layer of protection to my panel, I decided to add a layer of paint to each side of the panel that will be exposed to the outsideworld.
Since the initial state LEDs for the Li ion Charger Module will be stuck with the panel housing, I changed the initial SMD LEDs with two 5mm LEDs.
The two centers are sold to the ground (-)pins.
On 5mm led, the negative leg is the shortest.
Then I fixed the connection with a heat shrink tube.
To save money, I originally planned to change the potentiometer for icsa004a DC-
DC boost module (
It took only 0. 60$).
But when I tried to do that, I managed to destroy three of them.
The module always outputs 0. 07 volts.
After some research, I found that the main IC of the module is broken and will be heated every time the battery is connected to the module.
Because the module at the time was unusable, I ended up using an XL6009 module (
See this in the next step).
The XL6009 is a step-down converter, which means that the output voltage can be higher or lower than the input voltage.
The output voltage depends on the resistance value of the intermediate trimpot.
So if we want to control the brightness of the LEDs, we need to adjust the trimpot.
To make it easier, we need to add a 100 K potentiometer of normal size in parallel on the trimpot.
Now we need to turn the potentiometer to make it as low as possible, then we have to adjust the value of the trimpot so that the led will turn off.
Now, the led should light up slowly when the rotational potential is timed until it reaches full brightness.
Note: xl900 9 is a little more expensive than icsa004a, a little bigger, but in the east it works every time!
When I tried to close the panel, I found that the potentiometer took up too much space.
But 10 minutes of carpentry with a knife solved the problem.
I then use the supplied nut to install all the installable parts in the corresponding holes.
To install the Charger Module and the status indicator, I used a combination of hot glue and multi-glue.
Then I connected everything with solder and wire as before, but this time.
Then I closed the panel with a lot of glue.
This makes the panel very wear and dust resistant.
When the glue is dry, the clip is used to hold the position of the fragment.
To prevent dust from entering the hole, it covers all possible dust first
Entrance with tape
After that, I used the same DIY Wood filling mixture as before to fill all the blanks.
Then I polished everything that was flush on the surface with sandpaper.
I then added a few layers of white paint to the panel.
The paint also helps to hide the cracks between the mid-fiber boards.
After a whole weekend of work, it was finally finished.
But it\'s worth it!
The panel is very compact and can also be used as a handheld emergency light.
If you have any questions, please ask them in the comments section below!
Ps: because each led segment is made of three SMD LEDs in series, the entire segment is broken if unfortunately one of the LEDs is broken.
But the surrounding parts are still illuminated.
This means that to fix a clip, all you need to do is replace the damaged LED with a working LED (
Can be salvaged from another ship).
If you feel that your welding skills are not good enough, you can also remove the damaged part and replace it with the work part.
Custom message
