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HGB

Solar Powered Electric Fat Chopper Bike!

by:HGB     2019-11-29
Overview. Hi All. .
After I bought some flexible solar panels, I started the project and I did my dream for a while to create a solar car. .
I want to create something that can actually power myself from the sun, not only can charge the battery while parking, but also power the motor from the sun when the motor is running. .
The goal is to have an unlimited range.
I actually did it.
Read on and learn how to make this dream come true!
I edited this structure and now included the picture of the latest prototype.
The flexible solar panels are no longer high above, but are mounted behind the seat to provide a more streamlined and effortless driving experience :)
So, what do you need to build a solar electric bike, a tricycle, a trolley or a drifting bike. .
The final build will really depend on what parts you have and whether or not you have a solar roof or some kind of lightweight flexible solar energy that you need somewhere to place a panel or panel.
Roof, bike trailer or something like that. .
You may want to use it if you have a cart frame. .
I have a single-wheel clone from China, which is a self-balancing fat single-wheel skateboard (see pic).
The use of this product is very limited. .
In many cases, electricity is not enough to balance it safely, nor is it an actual transportation option.
But it does have a decent 48 v lithium battery and a good fat hub motor which is perfect for this project. What do you need? .
I originally wanted to do a solar flat electric bike, but I realized that the cost of a standard flat bike is huge.
Then I realized that a drift bike would be a cheaper way to create a practical vehicle to sit down.
So I loosely modeled my design around a typical drift bike that has a regular bike front wheel for steering and a low rider seat position.
I figured out how to install the wheels using the existing aluminum housing. .
Find someone who can reach the welder and find a suitable frame to work with the bike parts you will be using.
Find the right seat position so your feet can be placed on the toe on the front wheel and still turn easily.
The option is to use the drift bike front wheel with pedal and free wheel system to provide pedal help for those larger hills :)
I used a general purpose electric bike controller with my motor and threw away the original self-balancing circuit (
Because this is not required, and a lot of power is wasted in self-balancing circuits that we don\'t need).
There are many controller sizes from about 250 watts to 2000 watts or more.
For this project, we need to find the ideal balance between power and efficiency.
In New Zealand, the legal limit for electric bicycle engines is 300 watts. .
Bigger, you need to register as a scooter. .
It\'s easy, but it means there are numbers etc.
In addition, you will need to match the controller to the motor.
I guess my motor is about 500 Watts max.
So I chose a 450 w 9 mosfet controller that was able to output about 800 w at peak during acceleration, but only use about 100 to 150 w at cruise speed. .
Enough strength (just)
Up the hill without assistance.
This also means that the average wattage during normal use will be below 300 watts, but a little extra power can be obtained when needed.
I would like my solar roof to be as small as possible and provide enough power as well. .
That\'s why I chose an electric bike controller with an average of about 1. 8 amps at 48v (
Travel about 100 watts on the open road at cruising speed. )
Watt = volt x amps, so my 100 watt solar panel will provide enough power to keep the battery charged and drive the motor at cruising speed on the tablet.
It is very simple to set up the motor. .
Follow the instructions attached to the controller you purchased. .
I am using parts imported directly from China via the AliExpress website.
The controller I bought is fully installed in the aluminum frame, so this is easy.
Connect two large power cables to the positive and negative power supplies on the battery, and if you want to have an external power switch, connect the switch to the positive power supply.
I used a switch of 20 am p 12 v.
If you match the controller to the motor of another supplier, then you need to follow this flow chart to find the correct combination of the motor phase line, which is usually green blue and yellow, there can be 6 different combinations.
Be careful when testing and use only a little throttle. .
If the wheel rotation is not smooth, then try the next combination until you get a good smooth rotation with the smallest amp. . .
Once you have the battery controller and the motor plugged in and worked with the attached throttle, then you need to connect the brake lever, connect the brake cable from the controller to the lever, and test its cutting the power of the motor when you squeeze it.
Next you are ready to install solar charging.
I went back to the recycling warehouse and found this perfectly sized hanger (1m x 0. 5m)
For my 100 W solar panel it is easy to fit on top and connect with a zipper.
The power on the panel then flows to the solar controller, converting the power into the available Watt to keep the battery fully charged and to power the motor.
I found these microphone plugs and sockets in the photo and used them to design a simple plug-and-play system for solar.
So the solar charger is plugged into the same cable that is usually powered from the wall charger that comes with the battery).
For example, if needed, I can still plug in the original wall charger and charge the bike at night.
My lithium ion battery pack is a 48 v month ampere hour with built-in BMS (
Battery charging circuit).
The solar panel outputs about 18 v at a voltage of 6 amps, which is not enough to charge the 48 v battery.
The solar charger works best when the input voltage is higher than the output (
48 v for this battery pack)
So I also added a DC to DC boost circuit to convert the power of the solar panel from 18 v to about 80 v and then 80 v DC into the solar converter, charge the 48 Volt battery pack.
Since it is a maximum power point tracking controller, it converts excess volts into amps and provides a good level of efficiency.
Another option is to use 3 smaller solar panels in series (
About 50 v).
If the package is full, then the excess solar energy will enter the load (
Which motor is)
Then you have unlimited solar transport!
The hanger is well suited to the back of the bike and does not hinder the seat.
Next, I used a lot of zippers to tie all the cables and wires, and also made the hangers harder and more stable.
The hanger is removable, so it can be used as an electric bicycle at a distance of about 20 kilometers (
Battery range)
When I want to go further, I just clip it on the solar roof, plug it in and drive away. .
Even if the bike is off, the battery is still charging when solar is connected. .
So the battery is always full every time you stop riding or parking.
I put a new coat of paint on the bike to make it more beautiful and now she looks really beautiful.
I hope others will learn from this idea about self-sustaining transportation and build similar vehicles with whatever you have at hand.
Just around last year, flexible solar panels became quite cheap. .
They are now as powerful and versatile as traditional heavy duty panels.
One of the panels will cost you about $150 including direct shipping from China. .
The total cost of the project is less than $1000.
Who will think that you can make a practical electric car for less than $1000 and power yourself from the sun! Well you can :)
It\'s much cheaper than a new pre-built electric bike and it doesn\'t need to be plugged in! (
As long as there is sunshine).
I look forward to seeing what others can come up.
I saw a variety of electric solar cars on youtube, but most of them just added a little bit.
The challenge I have is to find the right combination or weight, power, and solar energy to have an almost unlimited range. And I did it :)
This helicopter bike is very interesting to ride. .
The top speed is about 30 km/h, which is enough for my needs, and as an electric auxiliary bike, it also maintains a legitimate road.
I will add the link to the part I use later. . .
All the parts are from China and are easy to buy.
The electric bike kit usually includes controller, hub motor, brake level, throttle, pedal assist (
If you want it too). .
There are also batteries at times, but these days the batteries are hard to send by courier, so try to find the right battery in your home country or make it yourself.
There are plenty of instructions on DIY electric bike batteries. Enjoy! Back again.
The DC to DC boost converter came from the courier, so connect it today and it works exactly as planned in my mind.
So this is good.
So now the power of the solar panel goes through the boost converter circuit, then to the solar charger, and then to the charging port on the BMS (
Battery Management System.
Preliminary testing is advantageous.
Set the boost to the maximum output voltage (around 80v)
By turning the screw tank clockwise, we got about 85 watts of power from the 100 watt solar panel. .
This fluctuates from 70 watts to about 90 watts.
The solar energy converter shows about 55 v in reading, at 1.
5 amps with voltage x amps = 82.
Accurate 5 W.
There are more adjustments and adjustments for Volt and amp pots (screw dials)
On the boost converter, the power of close to 90 watts can be obtained.
The efficiency of the boost converter is about 90% (
Maximum 95% under ideal conditions)
So we lost at least 10% of the panel power, so we want to be close to 90 watts.
An electric bike simulator or calculator is a useful tool.
I like to use this: the size of the input motor, the maximum amps of the controller, the size of the battery during the amp time, the coefficient of resistance (
Is your bike sitting up? . .
Then it will give you an estimate of the power-to-weight ratio and maximum distance etc.
I chose level 0% for my simulation to find out how many watts I used in a flat-panel cruise with 100% throttle.
Give me 69 watts at 1.
5 amps, this is encouraging because if I get about 75 watts (average)
From solar panels in 1.
5 amps and then consider regenerative braking and some mountain climbing, then we should average the wattage in the battery roughly the same as the wattage that is powering the motor.
This will be equivalent to about an infinite range on sunny days when the sun is high.
In the case of low light, cloudy or low angle sun, we may get 30 to 50 watts of power and lose some battery power.
Therefore, under ideal conditions, we should see that there will be no battery drain on a relatively flat ground.
This weekend I will test this by using local bike lanes and rural roads for night camping trips to go well beyond the normal range of battery packs.
I will bring a tent and some supplies to see how the bike performs at a further distance, with plenty of sun and some extra luggage.
Results will be updated in a few days!
I will use a free app called \"city cyclists\": provide GPS map of the route, record average speed, electricity consumption, distance, etc.
My electric bike controller monitor will also give me the distance to drive, battery voltage, etc so I can monitor the battery voltage in real time.
I also promise to list the parts I use, so below is a link to all the parts I use.
I ordered these parts from the following website: it\'s the portal from the manufacturer to the parts directly to your door, so they cut off all the middlemen.
I have done a lot of research on this and they have also tested and used many of the products they sell.
These sections I have listed are recommended and pre-tested for this type of project.
Going to techdirect can save you time and days to find the best products from the most reliable suppliers.
They only deal with 5 star recommended sellers and the products they buy and test on their own, and they take out all the speculation work.
So here is a list of parts: the lithium battery 48 v 4ah battery does not need to be big, because it uses the sun, remember!
With this battery size, you expect to get about 20 to 30 kilometers in the event that the light is very low at night or after fully charging.
The battery is the most expensive part of the electric bike kit.
You can also use a note on this site to build your own battery pack!
You don\'t need 48 v. .
36 v or even 24 v.
Just make sure your controller matches the battery (
For example, both 48 v.
Even cheap lead-acid batteries (
2 to 4 series)
It may work if you live in a sunny place.
If the system you are using is 24 to 36 v, then you do not need to use the booster to raise the voltage to a high level.
If you choose to say 3 smaller solar panels and give a voltage or 60 v or more in series, you can not even use a booster.
Number of flexible solar panels or a series of smaller panels.
This is the panel I use.
This is the best price I have found online.
Delivery time in most locations around the world is less than two weeks.
Free shipping via EMS is a big deal.
They can be bent up to 30%, but putting it flat on a level will provide maximum power at any time of the day.
You can also try some smaller flexible panels (
Say 2 or 3 of 50 watts)
If this configuration works better in your design.
You can also fold extra panels when parking to speed up the charging time.
There are a lot of choices, so use your imagination! :)
Here are two x 50 W options: you can buy a full solar kit, however, please note that if the maximum operating voltage of the solar controller you choose is 24 v, then you also need to use the 24 v battery and the 24 v controller.
Here is an example: the controller uses a trusted maximum power tracking controller from a supplier company I personally know from China.
There are a lot of fake max power point tracking controllers on the Internet, so make sure you buy a real one.
I don\'t have any commission to tell you about these controllers if you buy one.
All I know is that they are best suited to this situation.
The standard PWM controller does not convert the extra voltage into amps, so for this kind of project you definitely need a maximum power tracking controller, because when you are driving under a tree, under different light conditions, the voltage and amps on the panel will change a lot, so you need a controller that can quickly adjust and provide the maximum wattage under changing conditions.
The PWM controller cannot do this and needs to match exactly with the panel voltage for optimal efficiency.
The maximum power tracking controller performs this automatically.
For more information on PWM and maximum power tracking, please google it :)
This is the controller I use.
This is a true maximum power point tracking with good reviews and 5 years guarantee which is great for a Chinese brand.
Well made and sturdy but smaller than many people, which is also good for bike projects.
These controllers can do 12, 24, 36 or 48 v, so I chose this because I already have a 48 v battery, so it makes sense to find a solar controller that can do 48 v. brake lever. bike throttle.
Here\'s a link to a bunch or different throttle depending on if you want to use the thumb style, full twist or half twist, and if you want a battery indicator or throttle switch.
I chose the five-star brand because it is well-made and cheap.
The first throttle I bought was universal Chinese and broke down on the first day.
It\'s rubbish, so now I only use the brands I know that last for a long time, but the price is still high. controller.
The link above is a link to the various controllers of 36 v to 48 v, 350 w to 1000 w, so depending on the amount of solar energy you use and whether you will have PAS (
Pedal assist).
If you have any questions, please check these controllers and contact the seller directly.
When you choose the size you want and purchase, you can also leave any custom requests you want in the comments, such as a higher maximum current or no PAS (which I did)
If you don\'t use pedals, this kit comes with an excellent digital display that provides you with battery voltage, speed, distance, and more. Complete Kit.
Another option to save time is to purchase a complete electric bike kit with front wheel hub motor, battery, controller, monitor, brake, throttle and PAS sensors.
In addition to solar panels, boost converters, and solar controllers, this kit example will provide you with everything you need.
This is the best deal for a full electric bike kit I found anywhere online.
DC boost converter. wheel (go cart size)500w hub motor.
It\'s the motor I use in the project.
If you want to use the rear motor and there are pedals on the front wheels, then this is a good option.
Will work within the voltage range of 24 v to 60 v
Here are some other options for a small chunky hub motor suitable for the back.
For more stability, the hub motor can also be used as a tricycle on the back.
The two hub motors can operate from one controller to obtain a uniform power ratio.
The two motors need the same power and brand.
Okay, that\'s it now.
Have fun and I look forward to seeing your Solar Car Project!
Okay, so I gave up the fragile roof frame (clothes rack)
And welded a good solid frame for the roof, rubber is also attached around the frame to stop clicking and connect the solar panel with a zipper.
The DC booster and solar controller are also put into the waterproof box (
Ventilation holes on the side)
An additional circuit breaker was added for safety.
Therefore, there is a circuit breaker on both the panel and the battery. Great news.
After making some adjustments to the trim basin on the DC booster, I now get about 115 watts of power (50 volts x 2. 2 amps)
So the booster works fine and I got the biggest Watt from this panel.
So now the motor load tile is roughly the same as the solar tile, which means permanent solar transmission :-)
The upcoming road test :-)
The final roof frame is complete with a bucket seat for the drift bike.
The front wheels can also be turned on from the drift bike, so pedal help can now be provided for those larger hills :)
The road test went very smoothly.
It is estimated that I need another smaller solar panel of about 50 watts to give it unlimited range on sunny days. .
Currently, get about 80% of the power from the sun, so the range is very good.
The scope of it has not been tested yet.
But it\'s really nice to drive. .
A 5 km drive loses only a few volts and recharges within 20 minutes. .
So for normal use in town, the battery kept at 3/4.
I haven\'t even been close to running out of power since solar was installed.
Actual power is 2/3 (60%)
I have achieved unity in the bright Sun (about 18 km/hour)
Power from solar energy is greater than or equal to the power of running the motor)
Unlimited range, which is great.
I don\'t know there are other solar bikes/tricycles to achieve this.
It\'s all about balancing the weight ratio and getting the maximum amps from solar.
To strengthen the frame, I made some small additions and added a bike frame.
Fun to ride :)
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