lithium heavy duty solar usb charger 2.0: 11 steps (with …

Sometimes you need a lot of solar energy to get your gadgets running.
Larger phones, tablets and gadgets mean they need more power.
When a normal DIY solar charger fails, you need to resort to a heavy-duty solution.
In this project I will show you how to create a lithium heavy duty solar USB charger.
This is the second version of the project, which solves many minor problems while improving the overall design.
The main highlights of this project are 5w solar panels, 3A dual USB output, powerful lithium ion batteries, and wooden cases cut by laser.
Due to the components used, this project is suitable for direct solar to USB charging and can be easily used daily.
This is something that can be used for light camping or in case of emergency.
Its internal battery is powerful enough to charge any phone at least once, or several times for less phones/gadgets.
The only downside to this project is that the laser-cut housing is not waterproof, although it looks rustic.
Most of these parts can be easily found online, or at least very similar parts.
I have a full lithium heavy duty 2.
I have 0 kits on my website.
If you are looking for a smaller project, try solar USB charger 2. 0 Kit.
If you just want something pre-made, take a folded USB solar cell.
Note: This is not a beginner\'s project.
Lithium batteries can be dangerous.
Practice doing some other projects before doing this project.
Difficulty: Easy-
Medium cost: medium cost
Lower than the store purchased at the same time: 30-
In the 60 MinutesAll section, this project can be done in brondoggadgets. com.
There is also a complete kit.
Accessories: USB charging circuit-
DC to DC boost circuit 3.
7V Lithium Battery Charging Controller 3.
7V lithium battery-
2600mAh or better6V 830 mA solar cells (5 Watts)2.
5mm-barrel jack cable cutting box part with cable switching switch: Laser cutting box 16X6-
16x6-32 screws
32 nut stool: soldering iron welding hot glue gun foam tape wire cutter wire stripping screw driver optional tool: most high tech gadgets help hand scissors charge controller lithium battery.
They pack a powerful punch in a small size and affordable price.
The downside is that they may be unstable.
Like all batteries, lithium batteries use chemical reactions to store and release energy.
Unlike the AA battery when there is a problem with the lithium battery, you have a problem.
There are occasional fires, and although there are billions of lithium gadgets out there and there are very few fires, the risk is very small. (
Think about this next time the phone enters your pocket. )
To ensure that our lithium batteries are safe, we are using a lithium battery charging controller.
There are some changes in each lithium power gadget.
The controller ensures that the battery gets the exact voltage it needs to charge.
It also prevents the battery from overcharging and undercharging.
This is very important for our project.
The circuit can also tell us when the battery is charged.
The red LED on the board tells us that the battery is charging.
Blue LED will tell us when the battery is full.
There are usually two ways for USB circuit to make solar energy.
One is to withstand a very high voltage and drop it to the 5v required for USB.
The other is to lower the voltage and lift it to USB.
We only have 3 lithium batteries.
7 V, not enough to charge the USB device.
Our USB circuit is used as a small transformer to raise the voltage to 5v using a coil.
We get higher voltage by sacrificing current.
In any device that uses a lithium battery and outputs a USB power supply, you will find a similar circuit.
There are many circuits in the market, but this is a beast.
Its output rating is 3A and is shared via two USB ports.
Thanks to the lithium battery behind it, we were able to achieve a comparable charging speed with any wall adapter and even charge the most power-hungry gadgets.
In this case, our circuit can output the shared power of 3A on both USB ports.
This means that you can charge two gadgets at the same time, and both will get one. 5A of power.
Your standard USB wall adapter or desktop computer output is about 1A and the laptop output is about 0. 5A.
The battery power was explained before we used 3.
7v lithium ion battery.
You will find the same type or very similar in almost all the gadgets or laptops you have.
These batteries need to have an input voltage between 4. 5V and 5. 5V to charge.
They won\'t charge either.
More, and they. . .
Become very dangerous
In the simple solar USB project, the AA battery is used as a cheap and safe power supply.
The biggest difference in using lithium batteries is that they have a much higher charge.
This means that you can charge your gadget for longer.
They are also able to output power faster than AAs, which also helps to charge faster.
Battery size.
When dealing with lithium batteries, it is often difficult to tell how much the battery will charge the gadget.
If your phone has a 1600 battery, the external 1600 battery will not be fully charged.
This is due to the power conversion in your gadget and the boost circuit in the charging source.
The fact is that charging the iPhone requires at least one 2600 lithium battery.
This should give you 90-95% of charges
Larger phones and tablets will get less money.
Gadgets such as Ipod and mp3 players will charge several fees.
Keep this in mind when selecting a battery for the project.
In this setting, I am using 3.
The battery capacity is 7V 4400 mAh.
I also did this with 2600 battery and 6600 battery.
The battery you choose should be based on your needs and budget.
Solar energy as the general rule of solar setting, you need 1.
5 times the voltage you really need.
The sun is inconsistent, and if the energy of the sun drops a bit, we want to make sure we have enough energy to charge at least at the lowest level.
We need at least 4 batteries.
5V charging so ideally we want something around 6.
5V to 7V power supply (To be safe).
Unfortunately, 7v solar cells are not very common, so we have to stick to this common 6v solar cell.
By using a 6v solar cell, we will never overpower the circuit (
Because it runs at 4. 5V -5. 5V).
Another advantage of this solar cell is its high amperage.
Amperage is actually charging your battery.
Imagine it as the number of electrons entering the battery at any time.
The higher the amps, the faster your gadget charges (to a point).
The output of most wall adapters is 1 amp or 000 mA.
Most gadgets can be charged from as low as 500 mA.
The maximum output of our solar energy battery is 830 mA, which is a good middle zone.
It has enough power for direct solar charging or quick charging of the internal lithium battery.
If you are using an internal battery of 2600 and have very good sunlight, it should take 3-
Charge the battery for 4 hours.
I am using 4400 mAh which means it takes about 6 hours to fully charge in very good conditions.
If you have such a tendency, you can get 1 with two solar cells connected together.
6A, this will be an external limitation that the lithium charging controller can handle.
This will also greatly reduce the time required to charge the internal battery.
In this guide, we will use a wood case cut by laser.
The wood is 1/8-inch Baltic birch plywood, and a 12 inch x 12 inch board is usually less than $2.
I have included the laser cutting file if you can use the cutter and a piece of wood should give you two boxes.
If you feel energetic, you can always color, dye or paint the laser-cut wood.
The easiest way to make a shell is to use a plastic food container or a plastic box.
They are easy to find and cheap.
If you really grab a plastic food container, try o-with rubber-
Along the seal ring.
This helps to keep moisture.
Most hobby sites have \"project boxes\" of plastic or metal \".
These are OK, but they may be expensive.
In general, I recommend that people do not use metal shells such as Altoids or canned mint.
These are often short and very sharp edges.
Plastic containers are a better solution.
First of all, grab your 2.
5mm barrel Jack wire.
Wire ends of about 1/4 inch.
As part of this system, there are two lines, the line printed on it is positive, and the line without the line is negative.
Second, test your wire.
To be safe.
Insert the barrel jack into the lithium board.
Now press the wire to the positive and negative terminals on the solar cell (
When it\'s up in some light).
If the lithium charging controller board lights up, your wire is fine.
If not, try to turn them around. (
Barrel jacks and wires are most likely strange or backward. )
Third, weld the wires to the solar cells.
Fourth, test it again.
To be safe.
Finally, fix it in place using hot glue.
Lift the wire up, apply glue under and above the wire.
When the glue dries, press it down with a piece of tape.
If you don\'t want to use hot glue, the silicon sealing agent works well too.
The main purpose of this is to seal the solder joints and fix the cable when the cable is pulled.
In the next few steps, make sure that the bare wires on the lithium battery are not in contact.
It creates a lot of sparks and can damage the battery.
If you want to play super safe games, always put a small piece of tape on a wire.
First, cut three lines of about 6 inch in length.
Second, peel off the ends of the three-length wires and batteries.
Third, take a line of length and twist it with a negative line (black)
Wire for battery.
With the second length of the wire and the positive (red)
The wires on the battery are off.
In the picture above, all the positive lines are red and all the negative lines are black.
Fourth, twist the end of the negative wire (
Black in picture)
Through the negative hole on the lithium battery charging controller.
Enter from the top and Weld in place.
You only need a small amount of welding.
Fifth, do the same thing positively to twist together (
Red in the picture above)wire.
From the top, the welding is in place.
Finally, cut off any additional wires from the lower side of the charging controller.
Now you should connect the battery to the charging controller and remove the two length wires from the charging controller.
First, take the length of the positive line (
Red in picture)
From the charging controller.
Weld this to the middle pin of the toggle switch.
Second, take the remaining length of your cut (
Haven\'t used it yet)
And weld it to the external pin.
It doesn\'t matter which one.
Finally, cut off any additional wires that may hang on the switch.
Suggestion: sometimes it is difficult to pass the wire through the hole on the toggle switch.
Weld it to the side of the pin with a helping hand.
Since the switch is a plastic part, it is also easy to melt.
Be careful when welding, don\'t put it on the pin for more than five seconds.
At this point, we should have a positive line that is free to hang on the toggle switch and a negative line that is free to hang on the lithium charging controller.
All we need to do is connect them to the USB circuit.
Pass the wire through the penetration hole on the USB circuit.
They were labeled. .
Welding in place.
You\'re done now.
It\'s better to test your circuit before proceeding.
Pick up a small USB device and plug in.
If it doesn\'t turn on right away, try switching the switch.
If things don\'t go well. 1)
There are status LEDs on both the USB board and the charging controller board, which are good indication if they work properly.
If the LED on the USB board is turned on, you know the power will flow to it.
Again, when you plug in the solar cell, you will see either the red \"charging\" LED or the blue \"full\" LED lit up. 2)
Is your battery dead?
Your battery may just be dead or it\'s really low.
Let it charge for the day in the sun.
If you have a 2.
5mm wall adapter (
This is very common. plug it in.
Just make sure its rated voltage is 5v DC and the current does not exceed 1 amp. 3)
Is that your gadget?
The Ipad may not charge the board, but most other things will.
Grab another device, even the keyboard, and see if it lights up or turns on. 4)
If you still have a problem, pick up the multimeter and make sure the power is flowing everywhere.
Your battery will charge if your switch is broken, but the USB circuit does not work.
If the charging controller is broken, you will still flow from the battery to the USB circuit.
Please follow this guide if you are using my laser cutting wooden case files or parts.
Otherwise use a plastic food container or trash can.
Remember something when putting the box together.
The screws fit tightly and require a little pressure to insert them in place.
Although the wood is strong, you can still break it.
When pressing things together, be sure to press from the top and bottom.
Screw things in place first, and finally tighten them all.
If it is too tight, you can crush the wood label and in this case you will want to grab some wood glue to hold the box together.
First, check your screws and nuts.
You should have 16 each.
Gently twist together.
Second, start at the bottom of the box.
Gently screw into all four sides.
Third, it is time to place electronic devices.
Add the foam tape to the bottom of the USB circuit, the charging controller, and the lithium battery (
A lot of lithium batteries).
Put them together with the toggle switch at the bottom of the board.
If you have a problem with the charging controller board, try adding two foam bands at the bottom of it to give it a certain height.
Fourth, screw the screws above in place.
If you don\'t like my logo, turn it over.
Finally, walk around and tighten the screws.
Again, keep in mind that you can crush the label if it is too tight.
You should complete this project 100% now and can start charging left and right.
Operation note: the color of the charging controller LED can be seen through the barrel jack hole.
This is not a good solution but it works.
If this makes you uncomfortable, you can laser cut some transparent plastic as the top.
The USB circuit has an LED that is always on.
While this LED takes weeks and weeks to run out of battery, that\'s why we have the toggle switch.
As shown above, if you have this impulse, you can become a meta and charge the charger with this charger.
This charger is as good as what you do yourself.
On components and operations, it is more or less the same as most mid-range commercial chargers.
The dual high current USB output makes it better than most DIY projects that typically only output 500 mA, and the large solar cells allow direct charging and quick charging of the internal batteries.
Speaking of which, this is a DIY project where you can camp or put it in a window and charge your gadgets every day.
If you really want to strengthen it, you can make a 1 with one 6600 battery and two solar cells.
The output of 6A depends on your needs.
I have this kit on my website with a laser cut wooden box inside.
I also have a more basic solar USB charger 2.
0 kit if you are new to welding or just need a simple scientific project.
If you don\'t want to do a charger but still want a charger, I have developed and manufactured several folding USB solar cells.
These are more or less what my hobbyist friends and customers are trying to do, but do very poorly in doing so.